Procida: The Authentic Island of the Gulf

A 40-minute ferry ride from the port of Naples and easily accessible from B&B La Corte, Procida is the smallest and most authentic of the Gulf islands. Italian Capital of Culture 2022, this fishing island retains its old-world charm, with its colorful houses, picturesque harbors and seafaring traditions that resist mass tourism.

Procida is a volcanic island of only 4 square kilometers, but it packs an extraordinary density of beauty and authenticity. Unlike its sisters Capri and Ischia, Procida has maintained its soul as a seaside village, where fishermen still repair their nets on the piers and grandmothers prepare freshly caught fish according to centuries-old recipes handed down from mother to daughter.

Marina Grande welcomes you with the spectacle of colorful houses reflected in the water of the harbor. These brightly colored houses – lemon yellow, antique pink, sky blue, mint green – are not just a picturesque postcard, but had a practical function: they allowed fishermen to recognize their homes from the sea even in foggy weather. Each color tells a story about a family, a history, a tradition that has been passed down for generations.

Terra Murata is the ancient village perched on the highest tuffaceous cliff on the island. Here stands the Abbey of St. Michael the Archangel, founded in 1026, which houses the painting of St. Michael defeating the devil by Neapolitan painter Luca Giordano. The crypt preserves the remains of St. Ciriaco, the island’s patron saint, a pilgrimage destination during the patron saint’s festival in May.

The Palazzo d’Avalos, a former Bourbon prison active until 1988, dominates Terra Murata with its imposing bulk. This building, which housed political prisoners during the Risorgimento, can now be visited and offers spectacular views of the Gulf of Naples. The cells and courtyards tell stories of imprisonment and resistance in a setting of poignant beauty.

Marina della Corricella is considered one of the most beautiful seaside villages in the Mediterranean. Colorful houses climb upward from the beach, connected by stairways and arches that create glimpses of rare beauty. This small port has served as a set for famous films such as Massimo Troisi’s “Il Postino,” which helped make Procida known throughout the world.

Pozzo Vecchio Beach, reachable only on foot via a scenic path, is a wild oasis where the island’s volcanic nature is expressed in all its forms. The dark volcanic sand and crystal clear waters create a unique color contrast, while the Mediterranean vegetation smells of myrtle and broom.

Marina Chiaiolella, in the southern part of the island, is the modern marina connected by a bridge to the islet of Vivara. This nature reserve, accessible only by guided tours, is a laboratory of biodiversity where migratory birds nest and rare plants grow. Vivara’s trails offer unspoiled views of Ischia and the Flegrean Coast.

Procidan culinary tradition celebrates the sea: “rabbit all’ischitana” (paradoxically a typical dish of Procida as well), PGI lemons grown on volcanic terraces, and above all fresh fish caught using traditional techniques. Marinated anchovies, fish soup, and spaghetti with real clams are the authentic flavors of this island of fishermen.

Local crafts keep the maritime traditions alive: the construction of typical Procidan boats with colorful sails, the working of fishing nets, and the creation of ceramics decorated with marine motifs. Stores in the historic center sell unique items that carry with them the soul of the island.

During the summer, religious processions enliven the island with the participation of the entire community. The Good Friday Procession of the Mysteries is one of the oldest and most evocative in Campania, when the entire population participates in the re-enactment of the Passion of Christ through the streets of the ancient village.

Procida’s beaches, while small, offer crystal clear waters and seabeds rich in marine life. Silurenza Beach, Ciraccio and Chiaiolella are ideal for those seeking relaxation and authenticity away from the tourist crowds of the larger islands.

Returning to B&B La Corte after a day in Procida, you will take with you the salty scent of the sea, the vibrant colors of the fishermen’s houses and the feeling of having discovered an authentic corner of the Mediterranean, where time still flows to the rhythm of the tides and centuries-old traditions.

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